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Frankly, I think the only tool Jay uses is his complaint tool. He continuously moans about how bad everything is and slop shop mechanics and yet he doesn't do anything to solve his issue. Anyone here who does work on their rides knows that struts can be replaced as an entire assembly. They...

see post #32................:rolleyes:

I hope not. I'm not done.

I suspect the ABS control module has been damaged. I think you're in for a trip to a dealer or a certified brake shop. ABS can be finicky. A DIYer without the proper diagnostic tools is playing blind man's bluff in the dark.

I can agree to a point. Assuming the forged and cast pistons are both ferrous (iron) based, then the coefficient of expansion for the two are the same. Ferrous based liner with Al piston is a more complex situation for thermal expansion.

Those Toyo mechanics were feeding you a load of bull squeezins. Forged or cast, the pistons would be made to the same clearances.

This time of year finding grass seed gets difficult. You may need to hit the garden nursery. Big boxes have just about consumed their seasonal stock.

If your pistons are worn enough to "slap" in the cylinders, then you have an engine that is scrap. Piston to cylinder clearance is in the range of 0.0001 inches, maybe a bit more but 0.001 is a large clearance at this location. I seriously doubt if you can hear piston "slap" over the noise of...

You'll have a hard time finding grass seed in the drywall area.

I'd say no. More likely a wheel bearing. I'm assuming when you say "drags" the wheel (tire) quit turning. If the wheel is rubbing on the body, then its likely a suspension issue or your tires are too big.

You can prolly purchase an entire front strut. Then a spring compressor is not needed. Yes, you'll have to separate the lower control arm. That is an easy task to remove a couple bolts. IIRC, the lower ball joint does not need to be split. This needs to be done to wrangle the strut out. At...

Screws are fine. Its the nuts that are loose.

Yes, 50-60 kmiles is typical lifespan of shocks. Knowing Jay, he is prolly trying to stretch the replacement to 400 kmiles.

Why do you think you need shocks? Just because some stranger on a forum said the OEM shocks are not the best on the market. How does the truck handle? Does porpoise after bumps? Does it nose dive in hard braking? Are the shocks leaking? What is the mileage on the truck?

Unfortunately, the internet is not a top priority for me. There are other responsibilities needing my attention that are more important. My life is not dependent on the internet.

The insurance does not restrict the employee. It does restrict non-employees. Just about every auto repair shop in the nation has restrictions on customers being in the shop or performing their own work.

sorry, just playing. Yeah, my time on the site has been down a bit. I've been occupied with other challenges. Little time to fiddle on the internet.

I would suspect the quick lube place would prohibit such work due potential liability and insurance restrictions.

Ummm...... Start it + drive it + park it + shut it off = 1 drive cycle. I think you need to download the failure codes from the OBD. Then you'll have a clue as to the failure mode and what needs attention.

FWIW, I have a 6x4 tarp to toss under the truck. It at least makes a barrier between the mess and the floor.