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Nothing more reliable than butt dyno proof. Don't be a knob.

When you go to a Dr for a physical exam, do you expect not to pay???? You are asking the mechanic to do a physical exam on your truck for free. If this is your mindset, then I'd say you a very delusional.

So, you expect the mechanic to give you free shop time while your truck is consuming a bay that could be generating $$$?? You are unbelieveable.

YES.

Gotta stay away from the Gorilla lube jockeys.

Just simply astounding..................... LIke most kids today.....Always someone else's fault. Never responsible for anything. Jay, perhaps you should consider joining the protest at Columbia U.

You do need to clean the MAF periodically. It is a critical element in the fuel management system. Please use the correct spray cleaner. Its clearly marked on the can MAF Cleaner. Don't use Brake Clean or Carb Clean or any other junk you find in a can.

You need to learn how to do this work or find a more reasonable mechanic. $1000 per side. Did he at least give you a kiss or pull your hair while you were getting screwed?

Yeah, I've seen some of his vids. As an engineer, there is no way I'd let him touch any of my cars or trucks.

FWIW, I follow the OCI in the Owner's Manual for my Gem2 which clearly states 5K. I commute a little over 60 miles/day. I'll rack up 5K in about 4 months. In my mind, the minimal savings over a year using a 10 Kmile OCI isn't worth an oil related engine problem. Plus, I do this work myself...

Wheel bearing should not fail that frequently. Something is causing the pre-mature failure.+ They should be good for 100 kmiles. 350+ Kmiles........probably failed long ago.

This is actually pretty easy work for a DIYer with some mechanic experience. I just replaced the rotors and pads on my Gem2 last September. Purchased all the parts online thru NAPA. IIRC, all the parts were around $250. I think I did both sides in about 2 hours. Remove the wheel, remove the...

Then by all means buy a dozen. It'll treat 12 fuel loads. I have a bridge to sell near Yuma, AZ. Any interest? Very little rust.

I'd suspect a wheel bearing. Try this. Roll down the windows, Take a slow speed ride on a quiet road. Swing the truck in a series of S turns. If the "hum" increases on a left swing, its likely the Right wheel bearing. If the "hum" increases on a right swing, its likely a Left wheel...

It'll make your wallet lighter. Not sure about the claims or the advantage.

Don't try to pull it off the fitting. Use a good sharp knife to make a slit parallel to the hose centerline. Then loosen with a pair of slip grip pliers by gently rotating the hose. Now, you should be able to easily peel the hose off the fitting like a banana.

Didn't you solve this issue when the trans/clutch was rebuilt???

Let me be 2nd in that line.

By all means, you must wait until the light comes on. Certainly, no need to be "forced oil change'. Otherwise, who knows what dire consequences may occur. If this is on the Gen2, then you are 1400 miles over the recommended OCI. If its on your Gen1, then just add a bit of oil when the level...

perhaps a Pinto or Vega.