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If I had any surface rust on mine I’d treat it with a good rust inhibitor. I’ve used Mar Hyde spray on rust inhibitor on body rust, dries on clear but turns rust black and neutralizes it. Other companies like Rustoleum have similar spray on or brush on products. Grinding it off is the best...

I think in terms of economics you only have three options. Remove it Try to find one in a salvage yard fabricate a replacement The only replacement bumpers I’m familiar with are the off road bumpers and they’re not cheap. Although there have been some imported eBay knock off look alike...

Had a roommate who was ex-Navy who painted his steel wheels by taping off the fenders and coating the sidewalls with Vaseline. Claimed ‘That’s how they taught us how to do that in the Navy.” We used a lot of old shop rags wiping the tires down but never had to pull a wheel.

TacoKen has it right, if the book calls for II then III or IV meets all your requirements. Fluids don’t go bad over time but do absorb moisture. Then stuff rusts. Probably not a concern in AZ or CA but a good brake & PS flush is cheap insurance, and pretty easy for the average garage monkey.

NGK has always been my preferred brand, whether it’s platinum, iridium, or a plain ol plug for the lawn mower. Used to own a ‘77 Z car, cylinder 6 had bad valve ears and would leak oil when it sat idle, and fouled every plug I put in there, til I tried a NGK +4. That never fouled.

When I go to the range it’s usually with a few rifles & pistols in carry cases, most ‘gun locker’ options I’ve seen are either for rifles that don’t have grips/accessories or don’t accommodate a carry case. I can stow everything in the back of the cab but that’s not as secure as a lockable...

Just came into a 2015 Access cab, 4cyl bottom of the line ‘fleet special’, even came in white. Family member bought it new so I’ve borrowed it before and know it’s history. Rust free. 30k miles. Looking at adding a lock to the rear tailgate, will eventually add a lockable tonneau or bed cap. Is...