I hate when the rubber touches the shaft.I'm getting the vibration some times
It seems the bearing must be gone as the rubber is touching the shaft
Ok,I'm getting the vibration some times
It seems the bearing must be gone as the rubber is touching the shaft
Not sure which option your looking at for the drop, ive used the arb/ome for a few yrs now.I gotta fix soon , for now each time I use truck I slosh in gobs of High temp grease to reduce the current friction
situation ( gotta keep that shaft off the rubber )
The cost of bearing at Napa is $83 holly crap Rock might be $16 to $50 gotta study the particulars
I notice on Youtube the carrier bearing drop kit is often even used on factory Un-Lifted
I've always had a little rumble but was not experienced with the Taco .
Truck must of had some play that I could of brought to dealer attention
to get them to fix . I put on about 10,000 miles - very easy use . That was over looked by them in my view .
****, ive seen this on tacomaworld yrs ago.For now the drop kit would be a pet project - the immediate need is the Carrier Bearing
Can any one clearly express the difference of one on Rock for $16 opposed to paying $50 & now the reality of $85 at Napa
Are they all the same ?
$16
http://www.rockauto.com/info/17/DS-5227__ra_p.jpg
OR
$51
http://www.rockauto.com/info/196/HB238040-1__ra_p.jpg
They also have price's in-between
Are they all the same ?
Lol, i wasnt in question of what a zerk was.... but i think that was the main goal (finding a servicable bearing).Well if a choice of a Carrier Bearing
bearing was with one or with out a zerk
id pay more for the one with a Zerk ( A grease fitting, grease nipple, Zerk fitting, )
Update
sure all the info is on You Tube - but for any one like me lets cut to the chase
the Taco is a 2 part drive shaft
you need to remove rear drive first - goto Axel & remove the 4 bolts that hold Drive shaft to Axel Plate
then pull Drive shaft off Easy
(reinstall you will notice groves on drive shaft a wide protruding fluting others are very narrow it only goes back matching protruding fluting )
Now goto front drive shaft remove 4 nuts at drive shaft plate to transmission Leave Bolts - Now remove 2 bolts that hold Carrier bearing
Now hold drive-shaft & dissemble universal joint ( Replace with New)
after Universal joint is off look for nut at the prong that holds universal joint NUT HAS TO COME OFF
With nut off ,remove and pry any way that works the prong OFF
now remove Carrier Bearing clean area apply grease install new Carrier Bearing
resemble using your memory of how you took apart
But yes put back small axial with Carrier Bearing first
then rear drive-shaft next
Over all easy work
If u consider the original, im at 101,000 murca measurmentsFrom what it appears when the bearing gets very worn and or busts up . it starts to free wheel and the rubber will be toast
I got by for an extra month cause I kept slopping in gobs of grease to prevent metal to rubber contact it did buy me time but was a ritual that got old fast .Probably a dab of grease there every time you do an oil change could cause no harm .
Rock auto sells them as low as $16 up to $60 or so to do you self it's ok .
The flanges on the driveshaft fit back like a puzzle ( I called it fluting ) It seemed to me it could only go back correct .
I notice complaints from You tubers of vibrations & wile My truck feels very smooth some people expect to not feel ANY odd vibrations
I want to put out a question to members
How long does a fresh carrier bearing Last ?