The dreaded Tacoma door clunk

freighter72

freighter72

Well-Known Member
My Tacoma developed the dreaded "Clunk" while closing the driver door (with the window down). I ordered the door check assembly (P/N 68610-04030) and while installing it I discovered that the bolt on the door frame side of the door catch was just spinning as I tried to remove it. (due to the nut on the inside had broken free from the door frame). WELL ****!!!! It was 100 degrees outside today and I didn't feel like sweating my ass off so I called the "Stealership" for a quote. Without the bolt extraction the quote was $465.00, JUST LABOR! For them to get the bolt out and install the new door check it was $750.00 labor plus a diagnostic fee to verify that the nut was indeed broken free from the door frame. They said "plan around $1000.00 out the door". Sorry Toyota I just couldn't hand over a grand for a stuck bolt. Three hours, lots of cussing, and a gallon of sweat but it's done and my Tacoma Clunk is gone.
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I once had a similar problem with the one in my gen1 tundra. I shot some silicon heavy duty spray lubricant in there on it, and the clunk never came back.
 
tacojoel said:
I once had a similar problem with the one in my gen1 tundra. I shot some silicon heavy duty spray lubricant in there on it, and the clunk never came back.
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would that also elimate a squeaky door?
 
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freighter72 said:
My Tacoma developed the dreaded "Clunk" while closing the driver door (with the window down). I ordered the door check assembly (P/N 68610-04030) and while installing it I discovered that the bolt on the door frame side of the door catch was just spinning as I tried to remove it. (due to the nut on the inside had broken free from the door frame). WELL ****!!!! It was 100 degrees outside today and I didn't feel like sweating my ass off so I called the "Stealership" for a quote. Without the bolt extraction the quote was $465.00, JUST LABOR! For them to get the bolt out and install the new door check it was $750.00 labor plus a diagnostic fee to verify that the nut was indeed broken free from the door frame. They said "plan around $1000.00 out the door". Sorry Toyota I just couldn't hand over a grand for a stuck bolt. Three hours, lots of cussing, and a gallon of sweat but it's done and my Tacoma Clunk is gone.
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Glad you got it fixed.
 
Door disassembly is labor intensive, as you discovered. Also, the work is probably scheduled in the body shop. I think Labor rate in the Body shop is a bit steeper than the mechanic shop.

Annoying clunks are always suspicious of something that has come loose or left in from assembly. I had a new GMC Sonoma with a clunk in the passenger door. Didn't bother me much until I started hauling the kid around. Everytime the door would close.."CLUNK!" Got tired of the noise, removed the inner panel to discover a 1/2" combo wrench had been left.
 
My trucks cabin is still air tight, if the windows are rolled up. You have to give the door a good slam, or it will not fully latch. My 2001 tundra was the same.
 
FWIW..... Vehicle cabins are not air tight. They have flow through ventilation as mandated by the FMVSS. The motivation is to help prevent CO poisoning.

Your door not closing easily could be due to a misalignment at the hinge or latch or both.
 
After I removed the old door check I found that the plastic guides (inside of the door mounted end) had worn to the point of not properly supporting the check arm. The worn guides allowed the check arm to come in contact with the window regulator (when the window was down) and the door was trying to close. I will give my truck a few months to see if I have to replace a window regulator that was getting knocked every time I closed the door with the window down.
 
Rock62 said:
Door disassembly is labor intensive, as you discovered. Also, the work is probably scheduled in the body shop. I think Labor rate in the Body shop is a bit steeper than the mechanic shop.

Annoying clunks are always suspicious of something that has come loose or left in from assembly. I had a new GMC Sonoma with a clunk in the passenger door. Didn't bother me much until I started hauling the kid around. Everytime the door would close.."CLUNK!" Got tired of the noise, removed the inner panel to discover a 1/2" combo wrench had been left.
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Oh geez...... But your story has a happy ending. No more door CLUNK and a 1/2" combo wrench to boot! Hope it was a snap-on.
 
Here we go again. Pulled up the driveway after work, grabbed my lunchbox, opened my truck door and was greeted with the dreaded "CLUNK"! I sat there for a minute in disbelief. It can't be back, it hasn't even been a year! I grabbed my flashlight and there it wasn't. I was missing the bottom nut that holds the door check in place. So I searched the internet for an aftermarket part to replace a failed OEM one. NO LUCK, They do not make an aftermarket 68610-04030. NOTE: Amazon has a bunch of sellers that claim that their part will replace the OEM. DO NOT BELIEVE THEM!!! Their version is just a little bit longer and will hit your forward window rail when the door is closed. So anyway off to the dealer to spend another $100 (plus tax) on a part that I had purchased in July of last year. To be safe I replaced all the hardware this time around and gave the door check a healthy shot of grease. The job took a little over an hour this time and went a lot smoother. I hope this is not a reoccurring issue but only time will tell. IMG_0757.jpegIMG_0756.jpegIMG_0755.jpeg
 
Never heard of the dreaded "Clunk"

I have the dreaded "A-frame bushings squeaking"

102000 miles
 
Never heard any clunks, or squeaks in my truck either after 4 years. Cabin door seals are still fairly air tight...closing either door needs a good push to fully latch. If its done slowly, you can feel the air rushing out in your face if closely by.
 
Well there is a silver lining to this dark cloud. The dealer that I purchased the second door check from submitted a warranty claim for the failed initial replacement part. Toyota corporate reached out to me and offered to reimburse the cost of the part and the labor cost for the initial replacement. Since I only paid for the part and installed it myself I can't charge for labor BUUUUUUT......... I do get the cost of the part reimbursed and that ain't nothing.
 
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