That sucks.
Thanks.
Good deal. Looks pretty darn close to mine. The stock door speakers DO NOT have tweeters. When you remove them you will be shocked at how cheap they are and how good they sounded. As far as the door install they are easy as pie. You can find specific video instructions at oemaudio.com and they provide the tool list required. There is one time consuming step that can be skipped. On top of the required 4 tools also use a bungee cord on the door panel. If you do not have any then pick up a bag of them at the dollartree store with plastic hooks. Instead of disconnecting the door handle cables simply hang the door panels in place so, they are just floating in place. and you can work around them. I did that and balled up and placed a small hand towel between the door and the panel to give me space to work. Mine is an access cab so I did completely remove the rear door panels which did not require any handle cable removal. I just had to remove the lower rear seat belt bolt. This project took me less than an hour to complete for all 4 speakers. I suggest start with the passenger front door. That gives you more space to work and will make the other doors go quicker. I have done dozens of audio installs and upgrades and this was one of the easiest. Another suggestion is to remove the original speaker assembly and sit it down on a bench. Assemble the new speaker and mount next to it so you can compare them. This will insure the speakers are not mounted upside down in the mounts. Wire connections on speakers need to be mounted so they are on top and the correct mounts should have an opening on top as well. If this is your first time doing this type of job then you should be done easily within 2 hours. Just watch the video, have your tools together and take your time. Once done you will be one happy camper. NOTE: If it is windy outside quickly put the stock cheap lightweight speakers in a box so they don't get blown across the yard. Yes they are that light. ENJOY.
I found a set of open box H631SFJ100 on amazon they had one pair for $65. All the research I could find they are the same as the H631SFJ101.
This is the stock front door speaker that cone in the middle is a tweeter. I knew I could hear it and it was taking away from the clean sound of the H631SFJ100 kicker tweeters I installed. Can’t wait for these to be out of the door.
Popping the inner mounting points off the brackets so the 6 3/4” kicker fits...
...Feed the speaker wire adaptor and speaker wire through the opening in the plastic and under the foam...
...Pull the speaker wire all the way through zip tie as needed to keep wires out of window track and connect the rear kicker speaker. Mounting bolts used a 10mm socket...
...Hope this saves someone some time if they go with the 6 3/4 vs the 6.5” rear door speaker.
OK enough about the install. How do you like the sound.
How did you get 6x9” speakers in the rear doors? My 6 3/4” barely fit.
I just finished this tonight myself. Suburu speakers and the Kicker suggestions in the thread above etc. It definitely sounds much better. I think if you are on a budget, you might try the tweeters first and see how you like it. Someone on one of these threads said "you have to crank it up to wake up these speakers without an amp". I say the same. Don't get me wrong much, much better than stock. The clarity and "crispness" is excellent in comparison. Looking back, I think I should have spent a bit of extra money for speakers with higher sensitivity. My opinion is you need to turn up the volume above 35 to get it sounding good and above 40 it sounds really good. Low volumes sound better than stock but it needs a bit more power to sound as clear as the higher volume setting. I am thinking a higher sensitivity speaker would have been the perfect answer. Maybe someone with more sound system knowledge and comment on this idea.
Here are some lessons I learned:
1. The Metra speaker adapters for the front 6x9s needed an extra hole drilled for the Kicker. No way to line up all four holes without doing so. A little PITA to mount them on the adapters but it will work with some fiddling.
2. Be careful with the green plastic speaker things in the doors. You can crack or damage them if you don't go in straight with the screws. Essentially they behave like they are stripped. My own carelessness there. A quick solution I used was to fill them up with thin tooth picks. The ends won't allow the toothpicks to push out and the screws seemed to bit into them pretty well.
3. Be careful with the bolt cover on the pillar covers. I was a bit rough with one and broke a tab. It will be easy to replace of course, but annoying when you have a missing cover in the interior of your new truck.
4. Driver side tweeter connector... might want to enlist someone with small hands to get that connector off. No way I could fit my paws in there. I had to ask the wife to do it.
5. Don't need to force any connector. If you release it proper, it slides out super easy.
6. In the rear doors, I poked a hole in the rubber grommet in the door to run the wire adapter into the door. Seemed to work well... probably better test raising and lowering the window though.. I did confirm with Crutchfield this was the right thing but forgot test the rear windows tonight.
6. Crutchfield wire adapters needed a tiny bit of loosening with the connector to slip on. I was beginning to worry I was gong to snap the connector tabs off the speakers themselves pushing them on. But a little pry with a jeweler screwdriver did the trick. Might not be an issue on other speaks or with other wire adapters.
7. Don't be afraid of the door panels. It was pretty easy. You need some force to pull and it sounds terrible. Don't have a heart attack. It all goes well.
Overall really happy with the result. Thanks so much to the original poster for this tip on the tweeters and research into this. I am very glad I didn't spring for the JBL upgrade. This is really good for far less money.