monroe quikStruts and wheel wobble...

who knows??? it could be these guys way up in the front there for all that i know

 
I am tired of spending good coin that ends up going nowhere :(

This is a learning process for I and currently not exactly what to look at or what to look for
Therefre the grasping that is going on...
LOL
 
Perhaps a little less grasping and a little more follow up on suggestions...............

Seems like every suggestion you receive, you respond by spinning off into a different direction for another grab at something. Resulting in making little or no progress on solving the problem.

Remember, Timmy the Toolman on Utub is only a source AFTER the problem has been diagnosed. Although, I wouldn't consider Timmy as the ultimate answer.

In my 30+ years as an engineer, I've learned that most often the problem is not cause for the most complex solution. Example: An ignition misfire could be caused by the ECU being spastic........although, it is more likely to be a bad sparkplug or an electrical connection. The Low Tire Pressure light on the dashboard could be caused by a bad TPMS or a flaky Body ECU, but more likely the tire is just low on pressure due to a drop in ambient temperature.

So I'll suggest to Stop, Take a breath and think.
 
this must be what happens when you have an obscure rattle up front for more than a year that is diagnosed by a toyota professional and settled on being nothing more than a clutch release bearing chatter.... which later turns out to be an important piece to the engine that could've destroyed it had i not happened to spot that clutch bearing that broke out
:mad: my whole mind has lost any sense of focus :confused:
 
I recently owned a 2001 tundra that had nearly 300k miles on it. It was a fine truck, and i was hoping to get more time from it, but in reality it was going to cost me more in parts than the truck was worth. I had to make a decision when to hold them, and when to fold them. I kept up with some of the major repairs in those 19 years, but everything seemed to be failing at once throughout the chassis, plus the clear coat was peeling in places. Between a complete new exhaust system, new o2 sensors, spark plugs, timing belt kit, fluid changes, window door motors, lots of vacuum hose's, new shocks, and a paint job, it was time to let go of it. It had felt like i was fixing one issue after another a month later.
Best thing i ever did was buy this tacoma. I have so much spare time for other stuff that needed doing. I guess money is like blood it needs to be circulated.
 
i don't have an issue with parts costs per se, they are not too terribly pricey when the 41 per cent off MSRP OEM holiday sales come knocking LOL
the truck maybe not worth even salvage value... and its not ready for the crusher yet :eek:
if only it had one million miles already onit...
 
Rock62 said:
Sounds more like you need a serious front end overhaul. Ball joints, control arms, tie rods.....etc.

Shocks typically don't cause wobble. Unbalanced wheel cause vibration, not wobble. Worn front suspension parts are prime candidates to cause wobble.

You are driving a Gen 1 with a significant number of miles. Parts will wear out to get loose causing wobble.

Suggest to visit a shop that specializes in front suspension. Have them inspect and quote the work. Then make decisions. Don't fire the part cannon without a target.
Click to expand...

is there any chance you have heard of this place in Des Moines? and if you have any good or bad to say about them

Suspension Work Des Moines, IA | Merrill Axle and Wheel Services Inc.

Are you in need of suspension work or suspension repair in Des Moines, IA? If so, click to learn more about Merrill Axle and Wheel Services Inc.
merrillaxleandwheel.com merrillaxleandwheel.com
 
Sorry, no. I have not heard of them.

Just describe the problems you're having. Let them diagnose and give you an estimate on the repair. Once you have the estimate in hand, begin asking questions as to how they arrived at the repair and why will the repair solve the problem.

Although, just going by the shop name, I'd expect them to specialize Axles and Wheels. Their primary business could be heavy duty trucks, ie Dump, Concrete, Semi...... They may not have interest in a light duty truck. A quick phone call would confirm if they have interest.


Remember, you have 250,000+ miles on a 25 yo truck. It will likely need serious work and need big $$. As much as people believe that vehicles should last forever.........moving parts do wear out.
 
JayQQ97 said:
i don't have an issue with parts costs per se, they are not too terribly pricey when the 41 per cent off MSRP OEM holiday sales come knocking LOL
the truck maybe not worth even salvage value... and its not ready for the crusher yet :eek:
if only it had one million miles already onit...
Click to expand...
My truck ended up going to a farm, but i still see it now and then no worse for wear.
 
Rock62 said:
Sorry, no. I have not heard of them.

Just describe the problems you're having. Let them diagnose and give you an estimate on the repair. Once you have the estimate in hand, begin asking questions as to how they arrived at the repair and why will the repair solve the problem.

Although, just going by the shop name, I'd expect them to specialize Axles and Wheels. Their primary business could be heavy duty trucks, ie Dump, Concrete, Semi...... They may not have interest in a light duty truck. A quick phone call would confirm if they have interest.


Remember, you have 250,000+ miles on a 25 yo truck. It will likely need serious work and need big $$. As much as people believe that vehicles should last forever.........moving parts do wear out.
Click to expand...
I'd give to them 500$ to put on new stuffs, perhaps 700$
No way porking out over 3000$ and perhaps as much as 5000$

the New MT clutch needed sooner or later I am most happy to pork out 1700$ for which has been budgeted for in advance
 
A vehicle of that age isn't worth squat to them. They will only offer the same amount whether you drive it to them, or push it. It'll likely end up at some auction sold as is.
 
JayQQ97 said:
I'd give to them 500$ to put on new stuffs, perhaps 700$
No way porking out over 3000$ and perhaps as much as 5000$

the New MT clutch needed sooner or later I am most happy to pork out 1700$ for which has been budgeted for in advance
Click to expand...

Ummmmm......do you have a repair estimate in hand?? If not, then you are just making SWAG on the cost.
 
i have collected a few estimates from a few places over the past year, but its only for bits and pieces on the front end... so i am extrapolating on it a wee bit for everything else that may or may not be needed... but while its all apart you might as well put some new stuffs on IDK i will have to hunt down those estimates, they are in a gathered pile somewhere

the most recent estimate for the steering rack bushing(s) alone was 400$ iirc

Here is one with just one upper control arm
IMG_20221129_101802_664.jpg
 
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One day you will need to determine if the repair cost exceeds the value of the truck.

The value of the truck is more than just money based. The value determination should include the Use, insurance, replacement and a host of other intangibles.

When repair costs exceed the value, then you have crossed the line to throw good money after bad.

FWIW, based on that recommended repair list.....you need the front end replaced on both the left and right sides. Afterall, both sides are the same age and have the same miles.

Kinda like when you wear out a pair of shoes. Typically, one shoe is more worn than the other. Who buys just one shoe?
 
Seems like fairly similar estimate i got on my old tundra for our local toyota dealer just to replace my steering rack, lines, and pump. The pump was ok when i did the rack job myself. I think they were just covering their ass if it actually needed replacing.
 
Rock62 said:
One day you will need to determine if the repair cost exceeds the value of the truck.

The value of the truck is more than just money based. The value determination should include the Use, insurance, replacement and a host of other intangibles.

When repair costs exceed the value, then you have crossed the line to throw good money after bad.

FWIW, based on that recommended repair list.....you need the front end replaced on both the left and right sides. Afterall, both sides are the same age and have the same miles.

Kinda like when you wear out a pair of shoes. Typically, one shoe is more worn than the other. Who buys just one shoe?
Click to expand...
Problem becomes when one has some much already invested in repair work they can't stop, or don't know when to. I've seen it happen. You just have to tell yourself its time to bite the bullet, and send it down the road.
 
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