front brakes + rotors on gen2...

I installed EBC drilled, and slotted rotors on my tundra with using the stock toyota ceramic pads. Big difference in pad life, and stopping when running with a loaded truck. At the time this was recommended by toyota, or do a land cruiser disc brake conversion.
 
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i do not even have the proper torque specs YET for the caliper bolts!
definitely must get those proper to spec or else the caliper will eventually begin to rattle rattle

can i suppose them to be the SAME as the Gen1 caliper bolts, i do have the FSM spec for that there
 
I think my tundra caliper mounting bolts were around 75 ft lbs. They came out with a lot more force than that. Looking at the bolt threads, they had some sort of thread locking compound over them. Gotta believe it was to prevent any corrosion to those bolt threads.
 
You can buy solid aftermarket rotors every bit as good as ones with the toyota name for much less. Solid rotors are preferred if using the truck in muddy conditions, but won't perform nearly as good as drilled, and slotted rotors when it comes to everyday road driving. Heck you can buy better preforming drilled, and slotted rotors easily for what you'd pay to have those solid ones with a box that says toyota on it.
 
how much less?
these are 46$ each with no extra shipping charge
they are heavy!
 
I've bought aftermarket solid rotors in the past for Toyotas for a little over half that.....and yes that much steel isn't light....wait till you pickup a rear brake drum.
I recently got a set of drilled, and slotted rotors for our prius on eBay for less then a hundo.
 
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Jay. Measuring the thickness of the brake pad is no more difficult than measuring the thickness of a dime laying on a table.

You only need a vernier caliper. Simple tool. Many variants available. I'm sure Harbor Freight or Northern Tools has a selection.
 
To measure if any warpage on the rotors a more sophisticated tool needs to be used?
I watched a video somewhere on how to do that recently
 
To measure rotor warp you'll need a more sophisticated tool. A dial indicator with a magnetic base.

I won't delve into the How To. You are better off in time, aggravation and $$ to simply replace the rotors.
 
if your down to 1mm you've been metal on metal for a while!! usually when i change pads there is at least an 1/8 or 5/32 's left on the pads and it just is at sensor. You can tell to by how far the pedal is dropping too!
 
JayQQ97 said:
I bet it's that ABS that warped them at such low mileage!
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Thats a pretty far stretch of bs...more likely if the rotors were never replaced, or turned when past their service limits. You can warp new rotors just from riding your brakes too long down steep hills. It's one reason drilled, and slotted rotors have a big advantage getting rid of that excessive heat solid rotors can't.
 
Cape taco said:
if your down to 1mm you've been metal on metal for a while!! usually when i change pads there is at least an 1/8 or 5/32 's left on the pads and it just is at sensor. You can tell to by how far the pedal is dropping too!
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Not always. If the master cylinder rubber float is working properly, and your rear shoes are adjusting properly, you can still grind metal to metal without a change in pedal height, or firmness. Only if air gets into the brake system, the pedal firmness will change.
 
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