Jaw drop oil change

Crawdad said:
I put this in last week or maybe the week before... probably not going to hit 5000 very soon but will give my thoughts when the time comes...
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I used Castrol in all my foreign cars.
Triumph Spitfire
Subaru wagon
Toyota Corolla
Mazda B3000 and B4000
When I’m out of my service contract, that’s what I’ll use.
 
Crawdad said:
I put this in last week or maybe the week before... probably not going to hit 5000 very soon but will give my thoughts when the time comes...
Click to expand...
I am currently using castrol edge in my wife's van and currently trying to decide what to use in my taco when I change out the factory fill. Why did you change brands, what were you running before, were you having issues with youre previous oil. I'm interested in youre progress report. Ive used castrol products in a bunch of my vehicles, vans, trucks, motorcycles and always had good results.
 
bdarnold12 said:
I am currently using castrol edge in my wife's van and currently trying to decide what to use in my taco when I change out the factory fill. Why did you change brands, what were you running before, were you having issues with youre previous oil. I'm interested in youre progress report. Ive used castrol products in a bunch of my vehicles, vans, trucks, motorcycles and always had good results.
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I've used Castrol for a long time as well. I had never used Mobil1 before. While the dealership was still changing the oil for me I was changing the oil at home at the 5k intervals so I figured I'd use the Mobil1 that seemed so popular. I didn't have any problems I was just less than impressed with how dark and burnt smelling the oil was at even less than 5k miles so the last time I went to pick up oil I grabbed the Castrol Edge. There's a couple other oils posted above that I want to try as well, I'm just curious about comparison at oil changes but I'm not doing lab results or anything, just looking and sniffing... lol
Honestly, I don't think I will be able to conclude anything since I also flushed the tank with 91 octane and switched to the 1.05 91 fob tune and the engine is holy crap quiet, the engine runs so happy and smooth that if the oil is more "normal" when I drain it, I'd probably have to say the tune was the main factor, and maybe even the fuel... so, obviously don't look to me for solid answers. Haha
The Mobil1 just curled my nostril hair and came out thinner than water so I wanted to try an oil I'm familiar with for comparison.
 
I've used Amsoil in everything that I own (cars, trucks, backhoe, mowers and motorcycles) since 1994 with zero problems. I used Quaker State super blend in the late sixties and seventies, and the QS went down the tubes. Changed to Castrol dino oil and had no problems. Changed over to Castrol Syntec thinking it was synthetic, which is wasn't, just ultra-refined dino oil. Articles online to prove it. Castrol got it's azz handed to it for false advertising.

Had a renter that raced dirt bikes for Honda. He went thru a set of cams and rocker arms twice per season using the Honda synthetic oil. Honda supplied all parts and supplies for free, so it was no skin off of his butt, but pulling an engine down to replace cams, rocker arms and all ball bearings because of metal contamination was time consuming.

So...on a whim he tried Mobil 1 20W-50 synthetic in the bike. He got two seasons out of a cam and rocker arm set. He saved the empty Honda synthetic oil bottles from the shop (he worked at the Honda shop) and filled them with Mobil 1 oil for for oil changes and additions at the race. Needless to say, that taught me a lot about synthetic motor oil, and the differences between brands of synthetic. Later he switched to Amsoil 20W-50 synthtetic for the bikes and had better results than the Mobil 1. Cams, pistons, rocker arms and bearings showed less wear, transmissions stopped heat siezing in gear when using the Amsoil. Oil consumption dropped dramatically. That's how I became an Amsoil customer.

Lawnboy 2 stroke mowers recommend to use only their oils. After one season, the three exhaust port holes are over 50% clogged with carbon. This kills horsepower and scuffs the piston from the hard carbon in the ports. I swapped to the Amsoil premix @50:1 and could wipe the residue out of the exhaust port holes with 3 qtips. Also, it cut exhaust smoke by about 90%. Even when mixed @32:1 as Lawnboy recommends, it still has almost zero smoke.
 
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I have also used a lot if Amsoil products with great results, ran it in my Harley for 50000 miles with no problems, cam chain tensioner shoes still in good condition. When I had my hemi ram Amsoil was the only oil that had acceptable performane in my opinion. My only concern is the signature series not being API certified should any warranty issue come up in the future.
 
bdarnold12 said:
I have also used a lot if Amsoil products with great results, ran it in my Harley for 50000 miles with no problems, cam chain tensioner shoes still in good condition. When I had my hemi ram Amsoil was the only oil that had acceptable performane in my opinion. My only concern is the signature series not being API certified should any warranty issue come up in the future.
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API certification is strictly voluntary, and not a proof of quality of oil. I used the Amsoil Signature 5W30 in my 06 5.3 HO Sierra 4wd for 126K. Never leaked or burned any oil. The engine held together and was quiet, despite my efforts to the contrary. I use 0W-20 in my Tacoma with total confidence.
 
I'm getting conflicting info as to what's due at 60,000.one says they change oil in the front and rear diffs as well as a laundry list of other items. Roughly $900. The other 2 are saying different items and about $700. I do my own work on my Sunbeam but toe Tacoma goes to the dealership.

What items are critical as it seems dealers interpret Toyotas maintenance schedule differently

I've had mine just under 25 months and have 48,500 on it.
 
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