needing a new MT clutch procedure

@tacojoel

All has been covered within this thread.

The impediment to solving this is the owner of the vehicle.

I'm sure you've heard the phrase.....You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make the horse drink.
 
tacojoel said:
Usually when a clutch is chattering, it's the flywheel that needs resurfacing along with a new pressure plate, and disc. Might as well replace the throwout bearing while at it. I can't explain it any simpler.
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I can't really engine brake in 5th anymore either without that vibe, which sucks lol
Just 4th gear allows trouble free engine braking now :(
 
Also now have to ginger it into 3rd which is something new!
Kinda have to wait a sec and then ease it on in there very gently
 
I still am NOT educated on the exact function of the stupid pilot bearing LMAO
Is that part making any of these odd noises? I did buy a new pilot bearing to see what it looked like, it is SO SMALL!!

What parts function during the engine braking events, I still am rather clueless and trying to self-educate is a major uphill battle

Will oem parts work the bestest compared to aftermarket clutch parts which at least 2 shops wish to use
 
If I am going to need to spend nearly 2000$ to repair replace this I would kinda like to have good understanding of it all
Especially after that ASE diagnosed chatter over 2 years ago being this clutch bearing chatter WHICH it turned out to be nothing of the sorts, it was a much MORE GRAVE failure occurring that I was clueless about and those shopmonkeys did a damned number on me then...

For instance, I have always thot the clutch would start slipping in higher gear and it has not yet
Nor has it totally slipped out of gear, I can get into reverse with no issue
The issue of recent is ginger it into 3rd without scratch and I have not a clue what it is that's going on :(
 
I'd go with all oem toyota genuine parts when if comes to drivetrain issues. Aftermarket is ok for exhausts.
As far as the throwout bearing when they begin to fail, they usually make noises when you press the clutch petal as they make contact with the clutch pressure plate. When you have a bunch of miles on a manual and its time to replace the clutch, it's stupid not to replace a new throwout bearing bearing, same for the pilot shaft bearing in the crank. With the mileage you have, it might even be a good idea to rebuild the tranny, and shifter. Imo, this just another reason automatics are better, as long as you do regular fluid changes.
 
The shop would likely install a rebuilt transmission. Then they'll send yours to be rebuilt in a specialty shop, then for sale to another in need.

Manuals are fairly complex with all the synchronous shafts, drive gears, power shafts, shift forks, linkages, bearings, and special fasteners. Most shops do not have the skills to properly rebuild a trans.

Clutch slip can manifest in a number of ways. Slip in higher gears is one. IIRC, you mentioned something about hesitant acceleration at highway speeds, this suggests slip in higher gears. Since then the problem is becoming worse showing other symptoms, ie engine braking is only effective after downshift (vibration in 5th is clutch chatter), difficulty shifting. FWIW, a worn clutch will not cause the tranny to fall out of gear.

Simple way to understand what parts are involved with engine braking. Its the same parts used to power the truck down the road. The difference is the drive wheels are providing the "power", the engine is the "brake", all the torque on the parts is reversed.

I can not urge you strongly enough to quit being retentive about this and get the truck to a shop for a full clutch replacement. Yes, use OEM parts if possible. Replace everything between the engine and the transmission.
 
Had a wide ratio in my C modified production GTO. Had to rebuild it numerous times after it had a bad habit of losing 3rd gear, or shearing pilot shafts.
 
tacojoel said:
I'd go with all oem toyota genuine parts when if comes to drivetrain issues. Aftermarket is ok for exhausts.
As far as the throwout bearing when they begin to fail, they usually make noises when you press the clutch petal as they make contact with the clutch pressure plate. When you have a bunch of miles on a manual and its time to replace the clutch, it's stupid not to replace a new throwout bearing bearing, same for the pilot shaft bearing in the crank. With the mileage you have, it might even be a good idea to rebuild the tranny, and shifter. Imo, this just another reason automatics are better, as long as you do regular fluid changes.
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I'd think I'd go stir crazy and start bruising and cutting myself not being able to clutch it through big city traffic LMAO and not having a keen sense of which gear do I need to be throwing that into as situations develop
 
JayQQ97 said:
I'd think I'd go stir crazy and start bruising and cutting myself not being able to clutch it through big city traffic LMAO and not having a keen sense of which gear do I need to be throwing that into as situations develop
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Well eventually you're not going to have any clutch at all. You'll be sitting that traffic revving the engine while in gear, and not going anyplace. Happened to my 79 toyota 4x4. I still can recall the aroma of a burning clutch disc in the cab after all those years. That was one tough little truck that had a real hard life.
 
JayQQ97 said:
I'd think I'd go stir crazy and start bruising and cutting myself not being able to clutch it through big city traffic LMAO and not having a keen sense of which gear do I need to be throwing that into as situations develop
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Ya know, the funny thing about ATs.......You don't need a "keen sense" for the proper gear. It makes the selection for you based on speed, engine speed and load. And the really nifty thing....you can over-ride the automatic selection with the gear selector.

Anyhow, back to your trashed out clutch. I'll be really blunt. It needs to be replaced.
 
Oh yeah, I can feel the drag in first gear trying to get going uppa steep from a stop
:eek: o_O :eek:
 
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