needing a new MT clutch procedure

I think I mentioned some days ago in a thread to always change the throwout bearing when doing a clutch replacement. Have the flywheel resurfaced also. Its just stupid not to.
As far as your diagram...that picture doesn't show a throwout bearing in it.
 
tacojoel said:
I think I mentioned some days ago in a thread to always change the throwout bearing when doing a clutch replacement. Have the flywheel resurfaced also. Its just stupid not to.
As far as your diagram...that picture doesn't show a throwout bearing in it.
Click to expand...

yes this is a different diagram of parts relating to the part i believe the throwout bearing is attached to from watching recent dissassembly video from Petr in California on that gen2 taco bearing
 
tacojoel said:
I think I mentioned some days ago in a thread to always change the throwout bearing when doing a clutch replacement. Have the flywheel resurfaced also. Its just stupid not to.
As far as your diagram...that picture doesn't show a throwout bearing in it.
Click to expand...

clutch housing transmission case section

TOYOTA TACOMAVZN170L-CRMGKAB - POWERTRAIN-CHASSIS - CLUTCH HOUSING TRANSMISSION CASE MTM | Japan Parts EU

TOYOTA TACOMAVZN170L-CRMGKAB , CLUTCH HOUSING TRANSMISSION CASE MTM
www.japan-parts.eu www.japan-parts.eu
 
No throwout bearing shown either. The throwout bearing would ride on the exterior of the transmission's snout that the pilot shaft is under.
 
yeah i dont even know what that part is for exactly

part description says front bearing retainer
so maybe it is just a cover and no bearing to make noise inside of it?
 
maybe this obsure noisy in lower RPMs sub 2k is perhaps only the pilot bearing... it seems to go away or cannot hear it over 2k RPMs

i have not a clue honestly
 
Well.....I s'pose you could keep guessing.

Or............

Take it to a SHOP for repair/replacement.

Simple path to offer comfort on the procedure.
1. Speak with the mechanic only describing the symptoms. DO NOT offer a diagnosis.
2. Let the mechanic diagnose the issue.
3. Have the mechanic give details of the diagnosis and provide a quote for the complete repair in writing.
3a. Ask about a warranty. Should be written, not verbal.
4. You need to approve or deny the repair.
5. Assuming you approve. Request to have all the removed parts returned to you.
6. Use the returned parts to verify the parts on the final invoice.
7. Test drive it before you pay. Take the mechanic with you if possible.
8. Request the warranty in WRITING.
9. Pay the complete invoice.

Good Luck.
 
this obscure noise could even be the carrier bearing for all i know... vibrating at certain spots?
but how is that to be diagnosed or just put a new part onit see if noisy goes away
 
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my experiences with monkey slopshops, have tried several local in the past 4 years, is absolut total retarded shi!t
which makes me much more disgruntled that i can possibly be
paid some good coin for absolut sh!t gets into your system and starts boiling LMAO
 
the first oddity i had EVER experienced i described the infrequent symptoms for many months to years to find out what exactly is wrong and get it fixed proper
because it only popped up under certain conditions they would NOT EVER be able to replicate it most likely... until that finally broke and launched into a moving engine fan blade
that was professionally diagonsed as 'clutch throwout bearing chatter' by an ASE certified master Toyota technician and was verified as the issue TWICE before i believed them much to my dismay ... this was nearly 150k miles ago :confused:
 
Follow those 9 simple steps will give you confidence to vette the shop and to check the work and to have legal recourse.

If the mechanic won't detail the diagnosis or the repair or offer a warranty walk away.
If they won't offer a detailed quote with parts and labor, then walk away. Be aware, additional work maybe discovered during the repair. This work should fall into the same procedure.
If you do not approve of the additional work and the shop performs the work, then you are not responsible for the cost of the additional work.

Intermittent problems are the most difficult to isolate and diagnose.
This is why you ask for details of the diagnosis. If the details seem wonky, then seek a 2nd opinion from another shop.

You need to take prudent steps to protect your wallet and property.
 
intermittent problems are difficult and challenging for the 'parts changers'

but ought not all that difficult for the true and bonafide 'master mechanics' that know what it is going on by simple descriptions and have seen it all before
and are not just 'parts changers'
 
Well, jay could always continue to drive the truck till it blows up. This has been a tried, and true method of '' don't fix it if it ain't broke.''
 
tacojoel said:
Well, jay could always continue to drive the truck till it blows up. This has been a tried, and true method of '' don't fix it if it ain't broke.''
Click to expand...
Yeah, I think that is the path he is pursuing.

The downside is then he won't have any choice along with additional towing fees.

I wonder if a pool should be started betting on what breaks down first. Engine, Transmission, Suspension.....Other.
 
tacojoel said:
Well, jay could always continue to drive the truck till it blows up. This has been a tried, and true method of '' don't fix it if it ain't broke.''
Click to expand...

other would be a decent guess...

broke in Syracuse NY and remedied (for time being) in Jamestown NY, home of the 10,000 Maniacs

1000 miles away from home :confused:
 
Rock62 said:
Yeah, I think that is the path he is pursuing.

The downside is then he won't have any choice along with additional towing fees.

I wonder if a pool should be started betting on what breaks down first. Engine, Transmission, Suspension.....Other.
Click to expand...
Lets start a poll on this.
 
tacojoel said:
I think I mentioned some days ago in a thread to always change the throwout bearing when doing a clutch replacement. Have the flywheel resurfaced also. Its just stupid not to.
As far as your diagram...that picture doesn't show a throwout bearing in it.
Click to expand...
I recall mentioning a time ago how difficult it has been to find a yota specialist shop that will resurface flywheel if it's still good and can be done

Everybody wants to just put a new one in and charge the extra 400$ or so to 700$+. For just that part
400$ is for a non OEM part so likely jank
 
A toyota dealer likely won't resurface a flywheel, they're going to farm it out to a machine shop. It shouldn't cost anywhere near what a new flywheel costs. A buddy of mine that runs a large auto repair shop does this all the time when replacing clutch's, as long as there's still enough flywheel material to work with.
 
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