brake drum gasket?

the drums may be coming off for an inspection today

perhaps i will be able to inspect how this paper gasket has weathered over the year its been on
 
tacojoel said:
I can't ever remember any of my toyota's having them, or they just dissolved over the years when it came time to pull the drums.
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when i pulled the drums on my relatives 2o11 Taco last year there was a paper gasket still but most of it had dissolved and had to scrape it off to put a new one on lol
 
Never ever had any problem removing a drum. Removing brake rotors?....big issues:mad: I've had to torch them off, after soaking them with penetrating fluid, and even pounding them with a 20 lb. sledge hammer.
 
well i did have big issues

and so did 2 Yota techs that tried to remove and failed to do so
one even said they would eventually have to be cut off into pieces and replaced
 
I just completed a Disc brake job on my '06. New pads and rotors on both sides. Passenger side also got a new caliper because 1 of the 4 pistons was stuck.

The rotors were stubborn to remove. Generous use of PBlaster in all 6 lug holes and the jack screw holes coupled with a BFH. Turning, pounding, turning, pounding, swearing, more penetrant, pounding, turning........eventually there was evidence of movement, more penetrant, pounding turning....they came off.

Wire brush, brake cleaner, blue rages......then follow with sparingly applied copper based anti-seize on the hub contact points. Reassemble.

I believe the old pads were OEM pads. Very, very, very thin. Below the minimum threshold of 1 mm.

In the last couple weeks I've installed the following on both sides, Front axles, pads, rotors, sway bar links, 1 caliper and tie rod ends. Check upper and lower ball joints....no play. Visually examined bushings....they are old yet still functional. Next big tickets are tires and battery and head unit. Prolly need shocks in the Spring. Based on maintenance records they have roughly 60 kmiles on them. Starting to get a some porpusing after big pavement undulations.
 
Thats great.....assuming you have one of those and a 1/2" Impact......

For those without and without jack screws......its BFH. The banging imparts a vibration allowing the rust penetrant to work into the mated surfaces. eventually, a small movement can be witnessed between the lug bolts and the mating holes. This is a good indicator things are working.
 
Don Drake said:
View attachment 40093

One of thee and a 1/2" cordless impact and it's no big deal to remove stuck rotors.
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I didn't have a puller as such, nor did the rotors on my gen1 tundra have threaded holes to use a couple bolts to help pop them off. I think I used every curse word in the english language and then some. Finally got the torch to pop them loose.
 
Rock62 said:
Thats great.....assuming you have one of those and a 1/2" Impact......

For those without and without jack screws......its BFH. The banging imparts a vibration allowing the rust penetrant to work into the mated surfaces. eventually, a small movement can be witnessed between the lug bolts and the mating holes. This is a good indicator things are working.
Click to expand...
You can turn it with a large wrench or even two wrenches to give you a poor man's cheater. There are also long (like 24") breaker bars. Lot's of ways to turn the spindle.
 
Turning the spindle is not the problem.

Its breaking the rotor loose from the spindle after years of rust has bonded the two together.
 
I had all sorts of penetrating fluid squired in there for 2 days hoping it'd loosen up those rotors, and it did nothing, even wailing a 20 lb sledge hammer on them. After carefully getting them near red hot with the torch, a few good swings with a 4 lb hammer popped them off. It was solid surface rust on those spindles faces, that required some serious wire wheeling to clean up, till no high spots were present.
 
We have 2 toyota dealerships 27, and 33 miles from me that do great work. Ones a little less expensive than the other, but all in all, both are not cheap. You get what you pay for if needing either one. I still try to do all my own work, but I'm getting up in age. There be a time I'll just bite the bulle, and go to them.
 
tacojoel said:
We have 2 toyota dealerships 27, and 33 miles from me that do great work. Ones a little less expensive than the other, but all in all, both are not cheap. You get what you pay for if needing either one. I still try to do all my own work, but I'm getting up in age. There be a time I'll just bite the bulle, and go to them.
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a local-to-me dealer will NOT even give me a rough estimate for replacing this leaking steering rack
after insisting that i just need a ballpark quote on what yer books tell you how long it ought to take they insist back at I that i MUST pay to them $160 diagnostic to tell me the rack is leaking and needs replaced and get a quote when i KNOW it is leaking albeit a bit more slowly with that Prestone stopLeak stuff...

i want them to tell me if its 2hours? or 5hours? to replace and not be having to pork out yet another $160 of good coin


earlier this year before the leak developed i called one yota shop for estimate on replacing just the rack bushings and they told me its $400
SMH
 
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